This shows the assembled PSU. Only one of the DPS5005 modules are mounted as I am still waiting on the 2nd. You can see the driver stage mounted inside. The black painted front turned out quite nice. This is the back side with the mains connector, fuse and switch. I have to wait a few…
I recently bought a DPS5005 which is a 5A variant of the larger 20A DSP5020 I wrote about earlier. This module can deliver 0-50V/0-5A and have all the electronics inside the display module. Testing of this proves to be very good and it’s a good match for the 36V/5A driver module. As it all also…
This little example demonstrate how simple it is to create a Servo using the build in LED PWM. ESP32 comes with 16 channels of PWM, so in setup we asscociate channel 0 with pin 14 and set pin 14 to OUTPUT. We also set channel 0 to 50Hz 16 bit PWM. The example will sweep…
ExpressIF implemented FreeRTOS with their Arduino IDE library, so by using this we get a lot for free. By default we run Wifi etc on core 0, while the classic Arduino loop() run’s on core 1. In my case I want to use core 1 for bit banging and that is straight forward to program…
It’s time to code up the ESP32 Utility Driver. I am not that found of Arduino IDE, but it works and I like the wire library concept and how it simplify things. A Servo port is a signal that send a 50Hz pulse. The technique I suggest is a bit-banger where we loop as fast…
This ESP32 based Utility driver is just awesome in what it can do. I have to make a Rev 1.1, but for most parts it worked “as is” 7 x PWM Signals 0,5A each. CH340G UART to USB. ESP32 WROOM. 12 x Servo or IO ports. 12V PSU Input. USB. 2 x H-Bride for DC…
Finally received the PCB for the Train Control System and the Utility Driver. I decided to solder the Utility driver because that has the CG340G USB connection. Soldered the PSU & CG340 was straight up. I am actually impressed by CH340G as it always work and connect to Windows. Soldering ESP32 was straight forward, but…
The LMR14206 ripple was a bit much for my taste. It worked, I had 12V out, 3V3 out and the MCU ticked. But, it’s not a design I can live with. For now I continue on a different board and avoid mounting the DC/DC because I also realized that I could not really bypass it…
LMR14206 with 12V output to a LM1117 3.3V regulator. This is the 3.3V – 350mV ripple – not good. I need to work on that a bit. This is from my Motor Controller with MCU ticking. I probably need to add another coil on the 3.3V, but that add a lot of space, so I…
This is my LMR14206 DC/DC regulator with R1=15K and R2=1K which gives 12.2V out. The white wire is the PCB error I wrote about earlier. This is basically only the reference diagram – just be aware that the datasheet and demo schemtics mess up R1/R2 a little. Myself I use E values, so by setting…